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Being imaginative creatures, cats love to play with a variety of string-like objects. Shoelaces, sewing thread, ribbon, yarn and dental floss are most popular, but cats also find great pleasure in playing with curtain pulls, fishing line, rubber bands, and all forms of string. Unfortunately, cats are prone to swallowing these homemade toys and are faced with the potentially fatal consequence of what is medically termed a "linear foreign body".

Unless the object balls up, the digestive tract has a hard time moving along string-like object through its system, especially if one end is wrapped around the base of the tongue. The stretched out linear object causes the intestine to bunch up in a wavy accordion shape while it attempts to move the object out of the cat. However, the end of the "string" makes this impossible because it is anchored by the tongue or is moving more slowly.

As the intestine continues to pull on one end of the string, the string becomes tense, like the rope in a tug-of-war. This increasing tension causes the string to 'saw' through the intestines with fatal complications if not surgically removed in a timely fashion. Obviously, the earlier the surgery, the better the outcome.

Signs of a 'linear foreign body' can include gagging, vomiting, diarrhea, anorexia, lethargy, a painful abdomen, and perhaps a fever. You might even see a string-like object protruding from your cat's rectum or mouth. Call your veterinarian immediately. Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to pull the object out. You will only be jeopardizing your cat's health.

Despite the dangers posed by string and string-like objects, this is a fairly rare problem. Most cats can live long and healthy lives playing with these types of things, since most pass without hanging up and damaging the intestines. However, the best prevention is to eliminate as many linear objects as possible from your cat's environment, especially loose objects that aren't attached to anything. Why take the risk?

Maintaining Digestive System Health

Maintaining a healthy digestive system is very important to your cat's overall health. Here are some easy things you can do to keep the digestive system as healthy as possible:

• Keep your cat free from intestinal parasites such as worms. Have your veterinarian perform routine fecal examinations.
• Feed a high quality, highly digestible diet.
• If hair balls are a persistent problem, feed a hairball-control formula diet.
• If giving snacks or treats, make sure they are not more than 5 percent of the total diet.
• Avoid feeding fatty snacks that can upset the digestive system.
• Don't tempt your cat by placing 'goodies' (especially chocolate) in easily accessible areas of the house during the holidays.
• Keep your cat's environment free of 'string-like' objects.
• If you suspect your cat may have a linear foreign body, do not delay in seeking veterinary care.

Preventive training means trying to prevent your dog from exhibiting inappropriate behavior by keeping an eye on him when he is with you, or by keeping him in his crate (or a puppy/dog-proofed area) when you cannot look after him.

The methodology behind this type of training is simple. If your dog does not get an opportunity to exhibit an unwanted behavior, you do not have to modify his behavior or use negative training methods. Preventive training requires more participation from the owner as far as constant supervision and consistency, but in the long run it is far less stressful on both owner and dog. This training method has two advantages: 1) it sets you up immediately as the pack leader and 2) it expedites the bonding between you and your new friend.

If you bring your new puppy home and just turn him loose in your house, in a matter of maybe five minutes, he will have carried off as much as he could stuff in his little mouth, and chewed up what he could not.

On the other hand, if you choose to train in a preventive manner, you would only allow your puppy or dog in the room you are in and you would have a supply of proper chew toys ready for him when the need arises. If you catch him chewing on something he should not have, such as your pillow, you would distract him by saying "NO" in a very firm tone of voice and then offer him a proper chew toy along with praise. This way, he associates the praise with the appropriate chew toy. Remember, dogs/puppies understand about three tones of voice along with body language and eye contact. Here are examples:

• High-pitched, excitable tones are effective for motivating your dog/puppy (for coming to you when he is called or for heeling properly). This tone reminds him of his litter mates (this is why children have a difficult time winning the respect of a dog/puppy, since they sound like equals).
• Matter-of-fact tones are excellent for giving commands to your dog/puppy (the same tone as a bark-calm, direct, no urgency).
• Lowered tones which would simulate a growl from mom (which means whatever it is you are doing, stop it now). Remember, yelling or striking your dog/puppy will only confuse him and cause him to mistrust and fear you.

Dogs/puppies do not understand being hit or grabbed. They only learn they cannot trust you or to fear you. They understand direct eye contact, tones in your voice or your body language, so use these to your advantage.

Direct eye contact can mean you are looking lovingly at your dog and he may exchange your glance. Or when giving a dog a good long stare in the eyes after he has just jumped on you and you have told him "OFF"—the stare means "I mean business."

What about body language? Do you have a puppy who cowers when you approach him, maybe even squats and urinates just a little? You do not hit him, so why does he do this? The way you move toward a dog can be a threat in itself. Are you a lot bigger than the dog? Do you move quickly? Do you bend towards him? Why not try to encourage the dog to come to you? Squat down on his level so you are not so threatening; use a piece of his dog food or a favorite toy to convince him to come closer. Pet him when he gets very near you (do not reach out), and make sure you praise him for showing courage.

All too often people console their dog/puppy when he shows signs of being frightened. This is a normal human reaction. However, to a dog/or puppy, this only confirms his fear. For example, your child drops a metal lid from a cooking pan onto the hard surface of the kitchen floor. Before you can blink an eye, your dog/puppy has thrown himself under the nearest piece of furniture shaking uncontrollably. Instead of pulling him out and consoling him (which would be the same as saying to your dog/puppy "It's okay to be afraid"), try enticing him out with a treat, laugh, and be positive. Your dog/puppy may pick up on your mood. Show him he has nothing to fear.

Of course, the best way to handle emergency situations is to avoid them by keeping your pet safe and healthy. However, in spite of your best efforts, accidents can happen. Here are some tips to consider before you need to use them.

Always keep within reach the phone numbers for your veterinarian, emergency clinic, poison control center, etc.

Keep a copy of your pet's health records where you can easily find them.

You may also want to invest in a book that covers first aid procedures. Ask your veterinarian for recommendations. For example, the ASPCA's Complete Dog Care Manual and Complete Cat Care Manual have excellent information on first aid principles, as well as what to do in case of traffic injury. The book also contains useful information on how to perform artificial respiration and what steps to follow in case of poisoning, burns, insect bites, etc.

Keep an emergency kit on hand with such items as:

Bandages
Adhesive tape
Cotton
Antiseptic cream
Sterile dressings
Gauze
Thermometer
Tweezers
Scissors
Blanket

Have a pet carrier so you can safely transport your pet to an emergency clinic or veterinary hospital.

Remember, an injured or ill pet may not act like its normal, sweet-tempered self. Handle the pet with care so you don't get bitten or scratched and need emergency treatment yourself!

One of the reasons why dogs make such good pets is the remarkable way in which they can communicate with humans. Pet dogs see us as an extension of their own canine family and are very quick to interpret our own mood and intentions. An understanding of how dogs communicate with other dogs helps the observant owner to correctly decipher the message their pet is trying to convey.

Dogs communicate with other dogs through a series of signals that include a variety of facial expressions, body postures, noises and scents. Your dog uses his mouth, eyes, ears and tail to express his emotions. By reading the combination of body signals, you should be able to work out who is top dog in any confrontation or situation.

A dog who is feeling confident or aggressive may try to convey the impression of being a larger more powerful animal. He stands tall with ears and tail erect, thrusts his chest forward and may raise the hairs around his neck and along his back (his hackles). He may also wave his tail slowly and growl.

A submissive dog, on the other hand, will try to appear small and puppy-like. Adult dogs will chastise puppies, but they do not attack them. A submissive dog approaches a more dominant dog from the side, crouching low with the tail held low and wagging enthusiastically. The submissive dog may also try to lick the hands and face of the dominant dog (or person) and if this is not sufficiently appeasing, he might roll on to his back. While on his back, he may pass a small amount of urine.

The dog's tail is often a barometer for emotions. Most people recognize the loose, free tail wagging that is indicative of friendliness. Exaggerated tail wagging is often seen in subordinate dogs. A tail waved slowly and stiffly, in line with the back, expresses anger. When the tail is clamped low over the dog's hindquarters, it is a sign that the dog is afraid. Anxious or nervous dogs' tails are often stiff and drooping.

Some dog breeds have a distinctive way of carrying their tails. The Whippet and the Italian Greyhound naturally carry their tail in the clamped down position In general; however, a tail that is held more than 45 degrees to the spine expresses interest and alertness.

The facial expression of your dog tells you a lot about his mood. He can look anxious, excited, frightened, playful or any one of a vast repertoire of emotions.

Your dog's ears are erect when he is alert or listening intently. When the ears are held back or flattened onto the head, this could signify pleasure, submission or fear. To read his mood correctly, you need to watch for other body signals as well.

The eyes may be narrowed or half-closed when your dog is showing pleasure or submission, but are wide open when aggressive. In the wild, the pack leader can maintain control simply by staring at a subordinate animal. The two animals continue to stare at each other until one challenges the other or until one lowers his head and turns away. If the staring continues after the submissive dog has looked away, he may feel confused and bite out of fear. If eye contact is not broken, the dominant dog will reinforce his threat by snarling, growling or even attacking. You should not try to out-stare your dog if he has aggressive or nervous tendencies as this could provoke an attack. Nevertheless, regular, gentle eye contact with your dog is necessary as it reinforces the relationship.

Submissive dogs as well as certain dog breeds (Labradors), may appear to be 'smiling' and show their teeth in a lop-sided grin of friendliness. In the snarl of aggression; however, both lips are drawn right back to expose most of the teeth and it is often accompanied by a growl.

A dog will indicate his desire to play by raising a front paw or by performing the play bow. This gesture is often accompanied by barking in order to attract attention. Other gestures for play include offering a favorite toy or object, or bounding up to another dog in order to initiate a chase.

1. What is the scientific word for a cat's whiskers?

A. Jactitatae
B. Oscillatae
C. Vibrissae
D. Quaverae

2. How many total whiskers does the average cat have coming from the 'whisker pad' (the puffy area between the top corners of your cat's mouth and the outer edges of his nose)?

A. 20
B. 24
C. 12
D. 16

3. How many times thicker than ordinary cat hairs are cat whiskers?

A. 2-3 times
B. 1-2 times
C. 3-4 times
D. 4-5 times

4. Whiskers are rooted very deep in the cat's face, in an area rich in nerves and blood vessels. Compared to cat hairs, how many times deeper in a cat's tissue are whiskers set?

A. 3 times
B. 4 times
C. 2 times
D. 5 times

5.Cat whiskers can give an indication of your cat's mood. When the whiskers are relaxed or pushed forward, which of the following is NOT how your cat feels?

A. happy
B. defensive
C. curious
D. content

6. It is okay to trim or cut your cat's whiskers.

A. True
B. False

7. Whiskers help the cat feel his way around. This is because whiskers are so sensitive that they can detect the slightest change in ...?

A. Air currents
B. Air speed
C. Air temperature
D. Air humidity

8.When can whiskers be a 'bother' to a cat?

A. When he is playing with string
B. When he sleeps on his side
C. When he tries to eat out of a bowl
D. When he is hunting

9.Cat whiskers fall out and are replaced.

A. True
B. False

Genetics and experience are some of the most important factors that determine a dog's behavior. There's not much you can do about genetic influences except try to select a dog or breed that fits your lifestyle and comes from a good, healthy lineage. Once a pup has been born, he is on a certain path determined, to a large extent, by his genetics. Of course, a puppy's experiences early in life also contribute greatly to his underlying behavior and disposition. The contribution of genetics and experience is thought to be about equal, with early negative experiences probably accounting for a large number of temperamentally flawed adult dogs. Faulty raising practices are common and, unfortunately, are very common. That is why it is important to understand the basics of socializing your puppy.

Socialization needs to begin at home when a dog is young and should continue throughout his life. It is always better to deal with a potential behavior problem sooner rather than later.

Puppies trust everyone and everything when they are young. At this time, they should be exposed to people and various animals under pleasant circumstances with positive consequences. In socializing young pups, your goal should be preventing negative experiences from occurring. Friends should visit your house and interact with your pup - pick him up, feed him, play with him and talk to him soothingly. These are all good experiences for your puppy. The window of rapid acceptance begins to close toward the 8th to 10th week of life. If a negative experience is associated with a particular situation, this situation may be regarded as negative for the rest of the dog's life.

Attempting to socialize puppies after this sensitive period of learning is much less effective. Investing time and effort in socializing your puppy at an early age pays off later in life, both in terms of confidence and the puppy's ability to fit in with society.

"Puppy parties" can be helpful for teaching your dog confidence and help him accept other people and their pets. Before puppies start interacting, they need to be vaccinated and in good health. Play groups allow the puppies to learn acceptable non-threatening dog behavior.

A "sink or swim" attitude is never good when attempting to socialize a puppy. For example, taking your dog to a supermarket parking lot to meet different people does not achieve socialization. A situation like this can be overwhelming to your puppy. This is especially true if your dog is not used to being around a lot of people at once. Take it slow. Introduce people individually or in small, non-threatening groups. As with any behavior training, it is always a good idea to take small steps toward your desired goal.

Ultimately, teaching your puppy good social skills is your responsibility. Dogs often pick up cues from their owners without the owner even realizing it. Maintain a non-threatening environment and make it clear to your puppy what is and what is not acceptable behavior.